California Cosmetology Written Exam flashcards

Hair loss caused by prolonged tension on the hair shaft and follicle, commonly seen at the hairline from tight braids, cornrows, or extensions.

• Early signs include scalp tenderness, redness, and thinning at the hairline
• Repeated tight styling can cause permanent follicle damage if untreated
• Technicians should reduce tension and avoid affected areas to prevent worsening damage

Memory trick: 'Tight braids, thin hairline' — ease the pull to save the follicle.

The middle layer of the hair shaft containing keratin protein chains linked by disulfide, hydrogen, and salt bonds; the target of all chemical texture services.

• Contains ~90% of hair's mass
• Holds disulfide, hydrogen, and salt bonds
• Determines strength, elasticity, and curl pattern

Memory trick: 'Cuticle Coats, Cortex Controls' — cuticle protects, cortex holds the bonds

Sodium hydroxide relaxers are highly alkaline (up to pH 13-14) while guanidine hydroxide ('no-lye') relaxers are somewhat lower (pH ~10-11) but still strongly alkaline.

• No-lye ≠ no risk; can still cause dryness/buildup
• Sodium hydroxide is the strongest, most alkaline relaxer type
• Both types work via lanthionization, not thio's reduction/reformation

Memory trick: Lye is the strongest 'high' on the pH scale; no-lye is a notch lower but not neutral.

California requires foot spas/basins to be cleaned and disinfected after every client AND deep cleaned weekly to prevent biofilm buildup, with logs kept documenting each cleaning.

• After each client: remove debris, wash, disinfect with EPA hospital disinfectant
• Weekly: deep clean per manufacturer instructions (e.g., remove screens)
• A cleaning log must be maintained and available for inspection
• Biofilm buildup in pipes/jets is a major infection risk if neglected

Memory trick: 'Every client, every week' — daily wash, weekly deep scrub.

A hair removal technique using a thin layer of wax applied in the direction of hair growth and removed with a cloth or paper strip against the direction of growth.

• Applied thin, in direction of hair growth
• Removed with strip against direction of growth
• Requires taut skin for less pain
• Best for larger areas like legs and arms

Memory trick: Soft wax needs a strip 'sidekick' to pull hair away

A face shape with a narrow forehead and wide jawline; styling adds volume at the crown/temples to balance the wider jaw.

• Narrow forehead, wide jaw
• Add volume/width at top of head
• Keep sides near jaw close to head

Memory trick: Triangle sits point-up; flip the balance by fluffing the top.

Oil glands connected to hair follicles that secrete sebum to lubricate and waterproof skin and hair; absent on palms and soles.

• Secrete sebum, an oily lubricant
• Connected to hair follicles (except lips, eyelids in some cases)
• Absent on palms and soles where no hair grows

Memory trick: 'No hair, no oil' — palms and soles skip sebaceous glands

In California, electrolysis (a permanent hair removal method using electric current) requires a separate electrologist license and is outside the scope of a cosmetology license.

• Electrolysis is the only FDA-recognized permanent hair removal method
• Requires a separate California electrologist license
• Cosmetology and barbering licenses do not cover electrolysis or laser hair removal
• Practicing outside scope of license violates the Barbering and Cosmetology Act

Memory trick: Electrolysis needs its own 'electric ticket' license

Disinfectant solutions must be discarded and replaced when they become visibly dirty or cloudy, or according to the manufacturer's schedule—whichever occurs first.

• Visible contamination requires immediate discard
• Time-based schedule is a maximum, not a guarantee of safety
• Never top off or reuse contaminated solution

Memory trick: 'Cloudy solution, no more dilution—dump it now.'

A contagious viral infection causing fluid-filled blisters, typically around the mouth, that requires service refusal until healed.

• Caused by herpes simplex virus (HSV-1 typically)
• Highly contagious via direct/indirect contact
• Service should be refused/rescheduled until fully healed

Memory trick: Cold sore = close the door on service until it's gone

If a chemical product splashes into a client's eye, flush the eye with clean water continuously for at least 15 minutes and seek medical attention immediately.

• Flush with water for 15+ minutes minimum
• Do not apply neutralizers, ice, or other chemicals to the eye
• Seek professional medical evaluation after flushing

Memory trick: When chemicals hit the eye, flush for 15 and fly to care

The proportion of liquid monomer to powder polymer used to form nail enhancements; correct ratio is critical for durability and safety.

• Too wet (excess monomer) = weak, irritating product
• Too dry (excess polymer) = brittle, poor adhesion, service breaks
• Proper ratio produces a smooth, workable bead

Memory trick: Too wet = weak and itchy; too dry = crumbly and cracky.

Proper hand hygiene requires washing with soap and water and scrubbing all surfaces of the hands for at least 20 seconds.

• Wet hands, apply soap, scrub 20+ seconds
• Include between fingers and under nails
• Rinse and dry with clean towel
• Perform before and after every client

Memory trick: 20 seconds scrub = sing Happy Birthday twice while washing

A wrapping technique where the rod is positioned below (away from) its base section, minimizing scalp tension and volume — ideal for fine or damaged hair.

• Produces least volume/stress at the scalp
• Used for fragile or overly porous hair
• Contrasts with on-base (max volume) and half off-base (medium volume)

Memory trick: 'Off-base = Off the scalp, easy on the hair'

A written document required under Cal/OSHA's Bloodborne Pathogens Standard that identifies job exposure risks and outlines procedures for prevention and post-exposure response.

• Required in writing, not verbal
• Includes exposure determination and control methods
• Covers post-exposure evaluation procedures

Memory trick: 'Plan it in writing before blood goes flying.'

Restating a client's request in the stylist's own words to confirm mutual understanding and address any hesitation or confusion.

• Confirms understanding before beginning a service
• Helps catch miscommunication early
• Builds trust and client satisfaction

Memory trick: Echo it back before you cut, so nothing gets cut wrong.

Independent contractors renting salon space must hold a valid individual license, and the salon premises must separately hold a valid establishment license regardless of the rental arrangement.

• Booth rental doesn't waive licensing duties
• Individual license required for the practitioner
• Establishment license required for the premises

Memory trick: 'Renting a booth? You still need both.'

Wax is applied in the direction of hair growth so it properly coats hair shafts before the strip is removed against the direction of growth.

• Apply with growth for even coating
• Remove strip against growth for clean extraction
• Hold skin taut during removal
• Applies to soft wax procedures primarily

Memory trick: Apply 'with the flow', remove 'against the flow'

A guideline used to identify warning signs of potential skin cancer: Asymmetry, Border irregularity, Color variation, Diameter, Evolving.

• Asymmetry, Border, Color, Diameter, Evolving (ABCDE)
• Cosmetologists must refer suspicious moles to a physician
• Never diagnose or treat skin lesions themselves

Memory trick: ABCDE spells danger — Always Better to Consult a Doctor Early.

A safety step where a cosmetologist tests wax on their own skin (e.g., wrist) before applying it to a client to ensure it is not too hot and will not cause burns.

• Prevents thermal burns to the client
• Should be done before every application, not just once per pot
• Wax pots should have thermostats to maintain safe temperature
• Failure to test can result in serious skin injury and liability

Memory trick: Test the wax like testing bath water — never too hot

Hives with facial swelling and breathing difficulty indicate anaphylaxis, a medical emergency requiring immediate service stoppage and 911 activation.

• Signs: hives, swelling, trouble breathing
• Stop service and remove product immediately
• Call 911 — do not attempt to treat chemically or wait it out

Memory trick: Swelling + breathing trouble = STOP and call for help now.

Silk is a thin, tightly woven fabric nail wrap material that becomes nearly transparent under adhesive, producing a smooth and natural-looking reinforced nail.

• Silk is more expensive than linen or paper
• Silk wraps have a finer weave than fiberglass or linen
• Best for clients wanting a natural, smooth finish under polish

Memory trick: Silk is slick and smooth — the finest thread

A face shape with a wide forehead and narrow, pointed chin; styling goals focus on minimizing forehead width and adding fullness at the jawline.

• Wide forehead, narrow tapered chin
• Use side-swept bangs to soften forehead
• Add volume/fullness at jaw to balance chin

Memory trick: Heart shape = wide top, narrow bottom — balance with bangs on top, fullness on bottom.

Applying relaxer only to new, unprocessed hair growth during a retouch service to avoid overlapping and damaging previously relaxed hair.

• Overlapping causes overprocessing and breakage
• New growth is chemically virgin and needs full processing
• Careful sectioning and application timing are critical

Memory trick: Treat only the 'new roots,' never re-cook what's already done.

A highly contagious eye infection causing redness, discharge, and crusting; service should be refused and the client referred to a physician.

• Symptoms: redness, watering, crusting, discharge
• Highly contagious via contact with eyes/discharge
• Contraindicates all salon services until resolved

Memory trick: Pink eye, pink flag — stop and send them to the doc

An oxidizing solution (commonly hydrogen peroxide) applied after perm processing to rebuild disulfide bonds and fix the new curl shape.

• Oxidation adds back oxygen, reforming disulfide bonds
• Common oxidizers: hydrogen peroxide, sodium bromate
• Must be applied only after thorough rinsing of reducing lotion

Memory trick: Reduce to reshape, oxidize to rebuild — peroxide seals the new curl.

Selecting a color base (warm, cool, or neutral) to compensate for or complement the natural underlying pigment and achieve the desired tonal result.

• Compare desired tone to natural underlying pigment before formulating
• Add missing warmth with gold/warm bases
• Add missing coolness with ash/violet/blue bases

Memory trick: Fill in what's missing—cool hair needs a warm boost to go gold.

Combing a subsection of hair away from its natural falling position (rather than straight out) before cutting, which increases length and graduation at the perimeter.

• Hair is combed away from natural fall, not straight up
• Increases graduation/length differences at perimeter
• Commonly used in long layer and graduated designs

Memory trick: Overdirect = pull hair 'over' to a different direction than it naturally falls.

A clean towel or disposable neck strip must be placed between a client's skin and a reusable cape before draping to prevent cross-contamination.

• Required before every draping with a reusable cape
• Prevents direct skin-to-fabric contact
• Neck strip/towel should be laundered or disposed of after each client

Memory trick: Neck strip = the skin's shield before the cape comes on.

A massage movement involving kneading, lifting, and squeezing the skin and underlying muscle tissue between the fingers and palm.

• Increases blood circulation and stimulates glandular activity
• Used on cheeks, chin, and shoulders during massage
• Requires firmer pressure than effleurage but not as stimulating as tapotement

Memory trick: 'Petrissage = Pinch and Squeeze' like kneading bread dough.

A reference chart showing the natural contributing pigment exposed at each level during decolorization.

• Level 1-2: Black/blue-black
• Level 3-4: Brown/red
• Level 5: Red-orange
• Level 9-10: Yellow to pale yellow

Memory trick: BRown-Red-ORange-Yellow-Pale: darkest to lightest as levels rise

The removal of hair including the root from below the skin's surface, producing longer-lasting results than surface depilation methods.

• Includes tweezing, waxing, threading, sugaring
• Removes root, so regrowth takes longer
• Depilation removes only surface hair (e.g., shaving)

Memory trick: 'Epilation Extracts the Entire root'

A required step-by-step protocol for handling accidental cuts or blood exposure during a cosmetology service to prevent bloodborne pathogen transmission.

• Stop service immediately and put on gloves first
• Clean wound with antiseptic using single-use materials
• Cover wound with adhesive bandage before resuming
• Dispose of contaminated materials in sealed bag; disinfect all surfaces/tools with EPA-registered disinfectant effective against HIV/HBV

Memory trick: 'Stop, Glove, Clean, Cover, Clean-up' — SGCCC saves the day.

A structured conversation and visual/physical assessment conducted before a service to determine client needs, expectations, and any conditions that could contraindicate treatment.

• Should occur before every new service
• Includes visual inspection and open-ended questions
• Identifies allergies, medications, and prior chemical services
• Documented on the client record card

Memory trick: Ask, Assess, Advise, then Act.

Cal-OSHA's permissible exposure limit for formaldehyde is 0.75 ppm as an 8-hour time-weighted average, with a 2 ppm short-term exposure limit.

• Applies to keratin/formaldehyde smoothing treatments in salons
• Requires proper ventilation and exposure monitoring
• STEL is 2 ppm for any 15-minute period

Memory trick: 'Point-seven-five keeps you alive over 8 hours'

California requires a separate establishment license for the salon location in addition to each individual practitioner's personal license.

• Establishment license covers the physical location, not the person
• Individual license authorizes a person to perform services anywhere licensed
• Both licenses must be current and displayed
• Operating a salon without an establishment license is a violation of the Act

Memory trick: Building needs its own badge, and so does the barber — two licenses, two badges.

The technical term for gray or white hair resulting from a decrease or absence of melanin pigment in the hair cortex.

• Can be congenital (present at birth) or acquired (develops with age).
• Caused by reduced melanocyte activity in the hair bulb.
• Does not indicate a contagious or contraindicated condition — service can proceed normally.

Memory trick: Canities = 'can't-tint' hair, since melanin has faded away.

Cosmetology services must never be performed directly over open cuts, sores, or broken skin due to infection and bloodborne pathogen risk.

• Applies to waxing, shaving, manicures, and all skin services
• Open skin increases risk of pathogen entry and cross-contamination
• Service should be modified, postponed, or the area excluded
• Reflects standard precautions treating all skin conditions as potentially infectious

Memory trick: See a cut, skip that spot — no wax, no blade, no exception.

Using colors opposite each other on the color wheel to neutralize unwanted skin tones in makeup application.

• Green neutralizes red/redness
• Orange neutralizes blue (dark circles)
• Violet neutralizes yellow/sallow tones

Memory trick: 'Violet vanquishes Yellow' opposites cancel on the wheel

For minor thermal burns from styling tools, cool the area with cool running water, do not apply ice directly, do not puncture blisters, and seek medical care if severe.

• Cool running water reduces heat damage to skin
• Never apply ice directly to burned skin
• Seek medical attention for blistering or worsening burns

Memory trick: Cool it down gently — never freeze it, never pop it!

A mask formulated with absorbent minerals used to draw excess oil and impurities from oily or acne-prone skin.

• Absorbs excess sebum
• Tightens and refines pores
• Best for oily/acneic skin, not dry skin

Memory trick: 'Clay soaks oil away like a sponge in mud'

The three base colors—red, yellow, and blue—that cannot be created by mixing other colors and are used to form all other colors.

• Red, yellow, and blue are primary colors
• Mixing two primaries creates a secondary color
• All haircolor formulation is built on this foundation

Memory trick: 'RYB' - Red, Yellow, Blue are the roots of every color.

Hair with a raised, open cuticle that absorbs moisture and chemicals quickly, requiring reduced processing times.

• Cuticle is raised/open, often from damage or chemical services
• Absorbs product faster than normal porosity
• Requires shorter processing time and close monitoring

Memory trick: High porosity = sponge — soaks up fast, so don't over-soak

Pediculosis (head lice) is a contagious parasitic infestation identified by nits or live lice; service must be refused until it is resolved to prevent spread.

• Highly contagious via hair/tool contact
• Cosmetologists cannot treat medical infestations
• Service refusal protects other clients and staff

Memory trick: 'Nits in sight, no service tonight.'

Employers must maintain records of workplace injuries/illnesses in addition to their written IIPP, to track and address workplace hazards.

• Separate requirement from the IIPP
• Helps identify injury trends/hazards
• Applies based on employer size/industry classification

Memory trick: IIPP writes the plan; the injury log tracks the proof.

Shears should always be closed and passed handle-first to prevent cuts or injury to the person receiving them.

• Close blades before handing to another person
• Extend the handle, not the blade, toward the recipient
• Never toss or leave sharp tools open on a counter

Memory trick: Handle first, like handing someone a knife hilt, not the blade.

A communication technique using questions that cannot be answered with a simple yes/no, encouraging clients to share detailed preferences and concerns during consultation.

• Improves accuracy of understanding client goals
• Reduces risk of miscommunication and dissatisfaction
• Contrasts with closed-ended (yes/no) questions
• Builds trust and rapport with the client

Memory trick: Open-ended = open the door to full answers.

Pétrissage is a kneading massage technique that lifts, squeezes, and presses the muscle tissue, often used on fleshy areas like the palm, forearm, and calf.

• Derived from the French word meaning 'to knead'
• Increases blood circulation to the massaged area
• Different from effleurage (gliding) and tapotement (tapping)

Memory trick: Pétrissage = pizza dough kneading

Under CCR Title 16, Division 9, any spatula or applicator that touches a client's skin during waxing must be single-use and discarded after each use; disinfecting for reuse is not permitted.

• Applies to wooden and any other applicators contacting skin
• Prevents cross-contamination between clients
• Violating this rule can result in citations during BBC inspection

Memory trick: Touch skin once, toss it — no soak-and-reuse for spatulas.

A technique using a straightedge held against the nose to determine three key brow landmarks: start, arch, and end.

• Start point aligns nose to inner corner of eye
• Arch point aligns nose to outer edge of iris
• End point aligns nose to outer corner of eye

Memory trick: Nose knows: Start-Arch-End follows the nose line

A single-use spatula or applicator must be used once and discarded to prevent cross-contamination of the shared wax pot between clients.

• Never double-dip an applicator into the wax pot
• Each client requires a fresh spatula
• Wax pots and containers should be disinfected between refills

Memory trick: One dip, one client — never double dip.

A formulation guideline matching the percentage of gray hair to the percentage of natural-level shade included in the color formula.

• % gray ≈ % of natural level shade used
• Remaining % is the target/desired shade
• Ensures natural blending and full coverage

Memory trick: Match the gray percent with the same percent of natural shade.

A circular hair growth pattern, most commonly found at the crown, where hair radiates from a central point.

• Common at the crown of the head
• Can cause hair to stick up if cut too short
• Affects cutting and styling technique choices
• Other growth patterns include cowlick and widow's peak

Memory trick: Whorl = a whirlpool spinning at the crown.

Three increasing levels of pathogen removal used in cosmetology: sanitation, disinfection, and sterilization.

• Sanitation: reduces germs to a safe level (e.g., handwashing, soap)
• Disinfection: kills most bacteria/viruses/fungi on nonporous surfaces
• Sterilization: kills all microbial life, including spores (autoclave); not routinely required in CA salons

Memory trick: 'Soap, Spray, Sterile' — climbing the cleanliness ladder.

A basic pedicure generally follows: inspection, foot soak, polish removal, filing/shaping, cuticle work, exfoliation, massage, and polish application.

• Foot spa must be disinfected before each client per CA regulation
• Soaking softens skin for easier callus and cuticle work
• Massage typically comes after nail/skin services, before polish

Memory trick: Inspect, then soak like a bath before the scrub.

A wet hairstyling technique that molds hair into S-shaped waves using the fingers and a styling comb, without heat.

• Requires wave lotion or setting gel for hold
• Fingers press/hold the ridge while comb directs hair movement
• Produces a series of alternating S-shaped waves called shaping

Memory trick: 'Comb draws, fingers hold' shapes the wave.

Hair is classified into four wave pattern types—straight, wavy, curly, and coily—based on the shape and tightness of the strand's natural curl.

• Type 1: straight, no curl
• Type 4: tightest coils, most shrinkage and fragility
• Curl pattern affects chemical processing needs

Memory trick: 'Straight to Springy' — 1 through 4 tightens with each step.

Aerosol cans contain pressurized flammable propellants and must be stored away from heat sources, open flames, and direct sunlight to prevent fire or explosion.

• Never store near heaters, outlets, or direct sun
• Pressure buildup from heat can rupture cans
• Applies to hairsprays, some nail products, disinfectant sprays

Memory trick: Aerosol + heat = tiny bomb waiting to pop.

California regulations require manicure tables and other client-contact surfaces to be cleaned and disinfected with an EPA-registered hospital disinfectant between each client.

• Applies to manicure tables, styling stations, and other contact surfaces
• Must occur between every client, not just daily
• Dry wiping alone is insufficient

Memory trick: 'Every client, every surface, spray and wipe.'

When a technician observes signs of fungal nail infection, cosmetic service must be refused and the client referred to a physician, as diagnosis/treatment is outside the license scope.

• Thickened, yellowed, crumbling nails suggest fungal infection
• Cosmetologists cannot diagnose or treat medical conditions
• Service refusal protects client and prevents cross-contamination

Memory trick: 'When nails look sick, send them to the doc, don't paint the pic.'