California Cosmetology Written Exam flashcards

Care instructions given after waxing to protect sensitized skin and open follicles from irritation or infection.

• Avoid sun/tanning for 24-48 hours
• Avoid hot showers, saunas, and tight clothing
• Avoid heavy fragranced or alcohol-based products
• Gentle exfoliation a few days later helps prevent ingrown hairs

Memory trick: After waxing, skin is 'open house' — keep heat and sun out

Clients on blood-thinning medications are at higher risk of bruising, bleeding, and skin tearing during waxing due to reduced clotting ability.

• Increases bruising/bleeding risk during hair removal
• Skin may tear more easily when wax strip is pulled
• Cosmetologist should proceed cautiously or refer to a physician

Memory trick: 'Thin blood, thin skin protection'

A stripless wax applied thickly that hardens as it cools and is removed by hand, making it ideal for coarse hair and sensitive areas.

• No cloth strip needed
• Grips hair, not skin, reducing irritation
• Best for bikini, underarm, and facial hair

Memory trick: Hard wax Hardens on its own — Hands remove it.

A light, gliding, continuous stroking massage movement used to begin and end a massage sequence, promoting relaxation.

• Lightest of the massage movements
• Used to start and end massage routines
• Different from kneading (pétrissage) and tapping (tapotement)

Memory trick: Effleurage flows like a gentle wave over the skin.

California requires disinfection (EPA-registered hospital disinfectant immersion) as the minimum standard for reusable implements; sterilization via autoclave is optional, not mandated.

• Disinfection is the legal minimum, not sterilization
• Autoclave use is voluntary, following manufacturer instructions
• Electrical tools cannot be immersed or autoclaved

Memory trick: 'Disinfect is the floor, sterilize is the extra credit.'

Thin, porous papers wrapped around hair ends before rodding to keep ends smooth and evenly saturated during a perm.

• Prevent fishhooks (bent, distorted ends)
• Help distribute solution evenly to porous ends
• Common types: single and double wrap methods

Memory trick: Paper wraps the tips so no fishhooks slip.

The matrix is the living tissue under the base of the nail root that produces new nail plate cells, determining the nail's shape and thickness.

• Located under the proximal nail fold
• Injury can cause permanent nail deformity
• Should never be filed or cut during service

Memory trick: Matrix = 'maker' of the nail

Unwanted green tones result from too much blue-green toner over yellow hair; corrected using red-based products.

• Green = blue + yellow
• Complement of green is red
• Red-based filler restores balance before recoloring

Memory trick: Green needs Red medicine (complementary opposites cancel).

A microscopic pathogen that cannot reproduce outside a living host cell and depends on the host's cellular machinery to multiply.

• Obligate intracellular parasite
• Examples: HIV, Hepatitis B, common cold viruses
• Not killed by antibiotics; requires disinfection/vaccination for control

Memory trick: 'Vampire Virus' needs a host body to live — it can't survive alone.

Hand sanitizer reduces microbial load but does not replace soap-and-water handwashing, especially when hands are visibly soiled.

• Handwashing physically removes debris and organic matter
• Sanitizer is a supplement, used between full washes
• Does not replace glove use under standard precautions

Memory trick: Sanitizer sanitizes, but soap scrubs away the dirt sanitizer can't touch.

Methylene glycol, the liquid precursor in many keratin smoothing products, converts to gaseous formaldehyde when heated by a flat iron, creating an inhalation hazard.

• Methylene glycol = hydrated formaldehyde in liquid form
• Heat (flat iron) drives conversion to formaldehyde gas
• Requires proper ventilation and respiratory protection per Cal-OSHA

Memory trick: Heat is the trigger that turns liquid methylene glycol into invisible formaldehyde smoke.

Methyl methacrylate (MMA) is a banned monomer in California nail enhancement products due to its link to nail bed injury, allergic reactions, and respiratory irritation.

• MMA was historically used but is now illegal in nail enhancement liquids
• EMA (ethyl methacrylate) is the approved substitute
• MMA products often have a very strong odor and low cost as red flags
• Use of MMA can cause permanent nail damage and product removal difficulty

Memory trick: MMA = 'Major Mistake, Avoid' — banned for nail bed harm.

Proper gel curing requires matching lamp type (UV or LED) and cure time to the specific manufacturer's instructions to ensure complete polymerization and prevent skin sensitization.

• Under-cured gel increases allergy/sensitization risk
• Thin, even layers cure more completely than thick layers
• LED and UV lamps are not interchangeable for all products

Memory trick: Match the lamp to the label, or risk a sticky sensitized mess.

A psychological hair-pulling disorder causing patchy hair loss; cosmetologists should tactfully refer clients to a physician rather than diagnose or treat.

• Not contagious, no scalp inflammation typically present
• Cosmetologists cannot diagnose psychological conditions
• Refer client to a physician/mental health professional tactfully

Memory trick: When it's in the mind, refer — don't diagnose behind the chair

A contagious infestation of head lice and nits (eggs) attached to the hair shaft, requiring refusal of service and referral for treatment.

• Nits are firmly attached and do not brush off easily
• Highly contagious via shared tools, combs, or headwear
• Service must be refused and workstation fully disinfected

Memory trick: Nits that stick tight mean lice are taking flight — refuse and disinfect!

Under Cal/OSHA Hazard Communication rules, any decanted chemical container used by more than one person or beyond one shift must be labeled with product identity and hazard warnings.

• Original labels must never be removed or defaced
• Secondary containers used by only one person during one shift are exempt
• SDS must still be accessible regardless of labeling
• Applies to disinfectants, chemical services products, and cleaning solutions

Memory trick: Pour it into a new bottle, slap a new warning label on it too.

A test applying a small amount of aniline-derivative dye to skin, left for 24-48 hours, to check for allergic reaction before a permanent color service.

• Required before first-time use of aniline-derivative tints
• Applied behind ear or inner elbow
• Redness, itching, or swelling = positive/contraindicated
• Must be repeated for each new formula used

Memory trick: Patch test = wait two sunsets before coloring.

A perm rod that is smaller in diameter at the center and larger at both ends, used to compensate for graduated or uneven strand lengths and balance curl formation.

• Tapered, smaller in middle, larger at ends
• Used on hair with layered/graduated ends
• Contrasts with uniform (straight) rods of consistent diameter

Memory trick: 'Concave Caves in the middle to fit uneven ends'

A cowlick is a tuft of hair that grows in a direction different from the surrounding hair, often at the front hairline or crown, and is difficult to style flat.

• Commonly found at hairline or crown
• Resists lying flat when combed
• Consider growth direction when cutting/styling

Memory trick: Cowlick — like a cow 'licked' the hair up into a stubborn tuft.

A hair analysis test that stretches a wet strand to check its ability to stretch and return to original length without breaking.

• Healthy wet hair stretches ~40-50% and returns
• Poor elasticity indicates weak, damaged internal structure
• Critical before chemical services to predict curl results

Memory trick: Stretch it like a rubber band to check its snap-back.

Safety Data Sheets must be kept readily accessible to all employees during work hours as part of the Hazard Communication Standard.

• Required under Cal/OSHA HazCom Standard
• Must be accessible, not locked away
• Employees must know how to read and access them

Memory trick: SDS = 'Stayداily Sighted' — always in view for staff.

The final step of a perm where an oxidizing neutralizer (usually hydrogen peroxide) re-forms disulfide bonds, hardening hair into its new curl shape.

• Neutralizer = oxidizing agent, typically H2O2
• Stops reducing action and rebuilds disulfide bonds
• Rinse thoroughly before applying to remove excess reducing lotion

Memory trick: Reduction breaks, oxidation makes—neutralizer is the glue that locks in the new curl.

A preliminary test applying color to a small hair section to preview color result, lift, and processing time before full application.

• Performed on a discreet section of hair
• Confirms accurate processing time
• Prevents unwanted color surprises on the full head

Memory trick: Strand test = 'sneak preview' of the final color.

A properly fitted nail tip has a well that matches the curve of the natural free edge and should not extend past halfway onto the natural nail plate to prevent lifting and stress.

• Tip should match nail width exactly, not wider or narrower
• Well should sit flush against the free edge without gaps
• Overextending tip coverage increases risk of lifting and breakage

Memory trick: Half and matched — that's how it's latched

The oxidizing agent in haircolor that develops color molecules and lightens natural melanin.

• Available in volumes (10, 20, 30, 40) indicating strength
• Higher volumes lift more but cause more damage
• Reacts with dye precursors and diffuses melanin simultaneously

Memory trick: Peroxide is the 'power switch' that turns on color and turns down melanin

A perm wrapping pattern where base sections are staggered row to row like bricks to avoid split partings and produce even curl distribution.

• Prevents visible split lines between rows
• Commonly used for overall wraps needing seamless curl
• Contrasts with straight-back or curvature wraps

Memory trick: Lay hair like bricks so no lines show through.

An allergy screening test applied to skin 24-48 hours before a chemical service to check for sensitivity reactions.

• Standard interval is 24-48 hours prior
• Applied to a small, discreet area of skin
• Required before many chemical services including formaldehyde-based treatments

Memory trick: Give the skin two days to 'sound the alarm' before the full service.

Immunity is classified as innate (natural, present from birth) or acquired (developed after exposure to disease or vaccination).

• Innate immunity: inborn, general resistance
• Acquired immunity: develops from illness or vaccination
• Acquired immunity creates disease-specific antibodies

Memory trick: Acquired = 'earned' immunity after the battle with illness

Active eye infections such as conjunctivitis (pink eye) are a contraindication for lash and brow services and require referral to a physician.

• Signs include redness, swelling, discharge, watering
• Service must be postponed until cleared by a doctor
• Continuing service risks spreading infection and client injury

Memory trick: Red eye? Refer, don't adhere.

A numerical scale (1-10) used in cosmetology to describe how light or dark a hair color is.

• Level 1 = black (darkest)
• Level 10 = lightest blonde
• Tone (warm/cool) is separate from level

Memory trick: Low numbers = dark like night; high numbers = light like day.

Methyl methacrylate (MMA) is an industrial-strength monomer inappropriate for nail enhancements because it bonds too hard and inflexibly to the natural nail, causing damage, allergic reactions, and permanent nail loss.

• EMA (ethyl methacrylate) is the safe industry-standard monomer
• MMA requires excessive force/filing to remove, damaging the nail plate
• Many state boards prohibit MMA use due to documented injuries

Memory trick: MMA = 'Major Marring of nails'

California requires salon establishment licenses and individual operator licenses to be posted in plain public view.

• Establishment license posted publicly
• Operator licenses displayed at workstations
• Subject to Board inspection
• License must be current/renewed

Memory trick: Post license in view = like a diploma on the wall for clients to see

A strong chemical (sulfur-to-sulfur) side bond between cystine amino acids in the hair cortex that is broken by reducing agents and reformed by oxidation.

• Only bond type broken by permanent wave/relaxer chemicals
• Reformed via oxidation (neutralizer) or lanthionization (hydroxide relaxers)
• Gives hair its strong, permanent structural shape

Memory trick: 'Disulfide = Diamond-strong Do-over bond'

The highest point on the top of the head, used as a key reference point when designing haircuts and determining where layers or elevation begin.

• Located at the crown/top of the head
• Used to establish balance and guideline placement
• One of several head-shape reference points including parietal ridge and occipital bone

Memory trick: Apex is the 'A-peak' — the tallest point on the mountain of the head.

Acid-based nail primers are corrosive to skin; any accidental contact should be treated immediately by flushing with cool running water.

• Whitening and stinging indicate a chemical burn in progress
• Immediate flushing dilutes and removes the corrosive agent
• Never apply oils, acetone, or other chemicals to a chemical burn
• Seek medical attention if pain or damage persists after flushing

Memory trick: Acid burn on skin? Flush, flush, flush with water fast.

A weak, temporary physical bond in the hair cortex broken by water or heat and reformed when hair dries or cools.

• Represents about 1/3 of hair's overall strength
• Broken during shampooing/wet styling
• Reforms during drying/cooling, causing temporary style

Memory trick: 'Hydrogen = Humidity-hater, breaks in water'

Thio relaxers straighten hair via reduction (breaking disulfide bonds, requiring oxidizing neutralizer), while hydroxide relaxers permanently convert disulfide bonds into lanthionine bonds (lanthionization).

• Thio relaxer pH ~9.6-10.4, needs oxidizing neutralizer
• Hydroxide relaxer pH ~10-14, uses lanthionization
• Hydroxide changes are irreversible; thio bonds are reformed differently

Memory trick: Thio reduces like a perm; hydroxide permanently rewires the bond into lanthionine steel.

A condition of excessive hair growth on the body or face beyond what is considered normal, not caused by infection or disease.

• Non-contagious, not a contraindication to service
• Can be congenital or caused by medication/hormones
• Distinct from hirsutism, which is female excess hair in a male pattern

Memory trick: Hyper = too much; trichosis = hair — just extra hair, not danger

Cal/OSHA requires employees with occupational exposure risk to receive bloodborne pathogens training at hire, annually, and when new exposure risks arise.

• Initial training at hire
• Annual refresher required
• Additional training needed for new procedures/equipment

Memory trick: 'Train once, then every year, plus anytime something new appears.'

California Title 16 requires footbaths to be cleaned/disinfected after each client, again at day's end, and screens/filters removed and cleaned weekly.

• After each client: clean and disinfect basin
• End of day: clean/disinfect again
• Weekly: remove and clean screens/filters

Memory trick: 'Client, Day, Week' — three layers of foot spa care.

The California Board of Barbering and Cosmetology may inspect licensed salons without advance notice during business hours to check compliance with health and safety laws.

• No advance notice required
• Inspectors may cite violations of Title 16 regulations
• Salons must allow entry during business hours

Memory trick: BBC inspectors 'pop in' anytime — no appointment needed!

The standard order of steps performed during a basic facial to cleanse, treat, and protect the skin.

• Begins with cleansing and skin analysis
• Steaming/exfoliation prepares skin for extractions and massage
• Ends with toning and moisturizing/SPF protection

Memory trick: 'Clean Analysts Steam, Massage, Mask, Tone, Moisturize' (CASMMTM)

A non-contagious chronic skin condition causing red patches covered with silvery-white scales, often on the scalp, elbows, and knees.

• Non-contagious autoimmune condition
• Silvery-white scales on red, well-defined patches
• Service can typically proceed with gentle care unless skin is broken

Memory trick: Psoriasis = Pale silvery Patches, but Perfectly safe to serve.

A hydroxide relaxer that produces heat through its own chemical reaction (cream + activator) to enhance straightening.

• Self-heating reaction increases strength/speed of straightening
• Contrasts with endothermic relaxers, which need external heat
• Requires careful timing to avoid scalp burns/overprocessing

Memory trick: Exo = exits heat on its own, like a mini heater in the jar.

Nonporous items (metal, glass) can be disinfected and reused; porous items (wood, foam, some files) absorb liquid unevenly and must be single-use.

• Wood, foam, and cardboard emery boards are porous
• Metal and glass implements are nonporous and reusable after disinfection
• Porous items must be discarded or given to the client

Memory trick: Porous = 'pours' liquid unevenly, so it can't be trusted to disinfect.

California requires disinfected multi-use implements to be dried and stored in a clean, dry, covered container to prevent recontamination.

• Container must be labeled/dedicated for disinfected tools
• Never mix used and disinfected implements together
• Storage cabinets/drawers must also be kept clean

Memory trick: Dry, cover, and lock tools away like treasure.

A fungal infection of the nail causing thickening, discoloration, and crumbling of the nail plate; contraindicated for service.

• Contagious and requires medical referral
• Never file, buff, or apply product to infected nail
• Disinfect all tools that contacted the area thoroughly

Memory trick: Fungus = physician's turf, not yours.

Gloves are single-use PPE that must be changed between every client and whenever torn or contaminated, regardless of visible soiling.

• Never reuse gloves
• Wash hands before donning and after removing gloves
• Replace immediately if torn/punctured
• Applies to every client, symptomatic or not

Memory trick: Change gloves between clients = fresh gloves, fresh start

A test performed by sliding fingers along a dry strand from ends to scalp; a rough, ruffled feel indicates raised cuticle scales and high porosity, while smoothness indicates low porosity.

• Slide fingers from ends toward scalp on dry hair
• Rough/ruffled feel = high porosity, raised cuticle
• Smooth feel = low porosity, tight cuticle

Memory trick: 'Rough Ruffles = Really porous'

Signs like green-black discoloration, odor, pus, or swelling indicate infection and require refusal of service with referral to a physician.

• Pseudomonas causes greenish nail discoloration
• Cosmetologists cannot diagnose or treat disease
• Referral protects client and technician from liability

Memory trick: Green nail = 'go to the doctor'

Eyebrow hairs should always be removed in the direction of natural growth to protect the follicle and minimize skin trauma.

• Reduces follicle damage and breakage
• Lowers risk of ingrown hairs
• Should be done after opening pores with a warm compress if needed

Memory trick: 'Go with the flow' — pluck the way hair grows.

Porous or absorbent items that cannot be properly cleaned and disinfected must be discarded after use on a single client.

• Examples: foam separators, wood sticks, cotton pads, emery boards
• Cannot be soaked/disinfected effectively due to porous material
• Must be disposed of in a covered waste container
• Reusing these items is a licensing violation in CA

Memory trick: 'Porous = Pitch it' — one client, one use, then toss.

A weak physical side bond in the cortex formed by attraction between positive and negative electrical charges on adjacent protein chains.

• Broken by strong alkaline or acidic pH
• About 1/3 as strong as hydrogen bonds
• Reform when hair returns to normal pH

Memory trick: Salt bonds are like magnets—pH extremes flip the charge and break them apart.

A highly contagious skin condition caused by the itch mite burrowing under the skin, producing threadlike burrow tracks and intense itching, especially at night.

• Caused by the mite Sarcoptes scabiei, spread by skin-to-skin contact.
• Common sites include finger webs, wrists, and elbows.
• Service must be refused and the client referred to a physician; it is not treated in the salon.

Memory trick: Scabies mites 'scribble' burrow lines under the skin at night.

The most common hair texture, with a diameter between fine and coarse; considered 'normal' texture.

• Processes chemicals at standard/average times
• Most common texture among clients
• Compared against fine and coarse on a texture scale

Memory trick: Fine, Medium, Coarse — like Small, Medium, Large

A documentation tool used to track a client's service history, product formulas, allergies, and reactions to ensure safe, consistent future services.

• Should note allergies and sensitivities
• Records exact formulas/timing used
• Helps prevent repeat adverse reactions

Memory trick: Record card = client's chemical 'diary' for safety.

An EPA-registered disinfectant labeled effective against bacteria, fungi, and viruses, required for disinfecting salon tools in California.

• Must show EPA registration number on label.
• Label must claim bactericidal, fungicidal, virucidal activity.
• Quats and 70% isopropyl alcohol-based products commonly meet this standard when properly registered.

Memory trick: 'BFV' — Bacteria, Fungi, Virus — the triple threat a hospital disinfectant must beat.

Closed-ended questions yield yes/no answers; open-ended questions encourage detailed responses for better consultations.

• Closed-ended: 'Do you want it shorter?'
• Open-ended: 'How much length would you like removed?'
• Open-ended questions gather more useful consultation detail

Memory trick: Open doors give more room; closed doors give one answer

A freehand highlighting technique using a brush to hand-paint lightener onto the hair for a natural, sun-kissed effect with soft regrowth.

• French word meaning 'to sweep' or 'paint'
• No foil required, open-air application
• Creates soft, low-maintenance graduated color

Memory trick: Balayage = brush-painted like sunlight sweeping through hair.

California cosmetology licenses permit only temporary hair removal methods (waxing, tweezing, threading, sugaring, depilatories); permanent methods like electrolysis and laser require separate licensure or medical supervision.

• Laser/IPL requires physician supervision or specific certification
• Electrolysis requires a separate electrology license
• Cosmetologists may perform temporary removal only

Memory trick: Temp is Toward the license, Perm is Physician-only.