California Cosmetology Written Exam flashcards

A chemical service that loosens tightly curled or previously relaxed hair into a softer curl pattern using thio waving lotion on large rods, followed by neutralization.

• Performed on previously relaxed (not virgin) hair
• Uses large rods for a looser curl pattern
• Neutralizer re-forms bonds in the new soft curl shape

Memory trick: Soft curl perm softens straight relaxed hair back into gentle ocean waves using big rods.

Tinea capitis is a contagious fungal scalp infection presenting as red, scaly, ring-shaped patches with hair loss; salons must refuse service and refer the client to a physician.

• Highly contagious fungal infection
• Cosmetologists cannot diagnose or treat it
• Service must be refused until resolved by a physician

Memory trick: 'Ring around the scalp, send the client to the doc.'

Eczema is a chronic, non-contagious inflammatory skin condition causing dry, red, itchy patches; services may proceed with care to avoid irritating affected areas.

• Non-contagious, unlike fungal or bacterial conditions
• Avoid chemicals or friction on inflamed areas
• Refer to physician only if condition is undiagnosed or worsening

Memory trick: 'Eczema stays, but keep chemicals away' from the irritated patch.

An allergic response to para-phenylenediamine, an aniline derivative dye in permanent tints, causing itching, redness, and swelling.

• Reason patch tests are required 24-48 hours before tinting
• Symptoms include itching, redness, swelling, sometimes blistering
• Client should be referred to a physician and never tinted again with aniline derivative products

Memory trick: PPD = 'Painful, Puffy, Distressed' skin reaction

Coarse hair has a larger diameter and denser cuticle, requiring longer perm processing time than fine hair, which processes more quickly.

• Coarse hair = larger diameter, more compact cuticle
• Fine hair = thinner diameter, processes faster
• Texture is assessed alongside porosity before service

Memory trick: 'Coarse takes Course (longer time) to soak in'

A skin type resulting from overactive sebaceous glands, marked by excess shine, enlarged pores, and susceptibility to acne.

• Caused by excess sebum production
• Prone to comedones and acne
• Needs oil-absorbing, non-comedogenic products

Memory trick: 'Oily = Overactive Oil glands' shining like a sunlamp

Applicators used on one client's skin or lips must never be re-dipped into a shared cosmetic product; a fresh disposable applicator must be used for each client.

• Applies to lip gloss, lipstick, mascara wands, and similar communal products
• Re-dipping transfers saliva/pathogens into the shared product
• Disposable applicators should be discarded after single use
• Decanting a small amount into a disposable cup avoids contaminating the main container

Memory trick: One dip, one client, one trash bin — never double back.

The deeper of the two dermal layers, containing collagen and elastin fibers along with blood vessels, nerves, oil and sweat glands, and hair follicles.

• Provides skin strength, flexibility, and elasticity
• Located beneath the papillary layer
• Contains most skin appendages (follicles, glands, vessels)

Memory trick: 'Reticular = Rope fibers' — think of a rope net holding skin together.

California law requires cosmetologists to refuse service when a client shows signs of a contagious scalp or skin disorder and refer them to a physician.

• Tinea capitis (ringworm) is fungal and contagious
• Signs include circular bald patches with broken hairs
• Cosmetologists cannot diagnose or treat disease
• Service resumes only after physician clearance

Memory trick: Ring on the scalp = ring the doctor's bell.

California Title 16 requires clean linens for each client, with clean and soiled linens stored separately in closed, labeled containers to prevent cross-contamination.

• Fresh linen required per client, no reuse
• Soiled linens stored separately from clean ones
• Containers for clean/soiled linen must be covered

Memory trick: One towel, one client, one clean container

An oval face has balanced, evenly proportioned features and is considered the ideal shape in hairstyling because it works with nearly any style.

• Length is about 1.5x the width
• Forehead, cheekbones, and jaw are similar in width
• Used as the benchmark for corrective styling on other shapes

Memory trick: Oval is the 'Original' ideal — every other shape gets styled TOWARD it.

Cosmetologists must decline service and refer clients to a physician when encountering skin or scalp conditions they cannot confidently identify as safe and non-contagious.

• Cosmetologists cannot diagnose medical conditions
• When in doubt, refer out
• Protects client health and cosmetologist liability

Memory trick: 'When unsure, see the doctor' before touching the mystery rash.

The proportion of color to developer specified by manufacturers, used to calculate correct formula volumes.

• Common ratios: 1:1, 1:1.5, 1:2
• Total volume = color amount + developer amount
• Developer amount = color amount × ratio multiplier

Memory trick: Multiply color by the ratio number to find developer, then add both together

Fungi are microorganisms that feed on keratin and cause conditions such as ringworm (tinea) and nail fungus; they thrive in warm, damp environments.

• Includes molds and yeasts
• Cause tinea capitis, tinea pedis, onychomycosis
• Client with active fungal infection must be refused service

Memory trick: Fungi = 'Fun-Gi' munching on keratin like a hungry mushroom.

NIOSH-approved dust masks or respirators are required to filter fine particulate matter generated during acrylic filing, since surgical masks and cloth coverings are inadequate for this purpose.

• Fine acrylic dust requires NIOSH-rated filtration
• Surgical masks don't filter fine particulates well
• Used alongside proper ventilation, not as a replacement

Memory trick: 'Fine dust demands a NIOSH must.'

The hair's ability to absorb moisture and chemicals, based on cuticle condition; high porosity increases and speeds color absorption.

• High porosity = raised cuticle = fast, deep absorption
• Low porosity = tight cuticle = slow, resistant absorption
• Porosity testing helps adjust timing and formulation

Memory trick: Porous hair is a 'sponge'—soaks up color fast and dark.

The strongest chemical relaxers, also known as 'lye' relaxers, used for highly resistant, extremely curly hair.

• High pH (12.5-13.5) makes them very effective.
• Can cause significant scalp irritation and hair damage if misused.
• Do not require a separate neutralizer to rebuild bonds, but a neutralizing shampoo is essential.
• They break disulfide bonds permanently through a process called lanthionization.

Memory trick: Strongest Soda, Gentler Goo, Milder Thio.

The first-time application of a chemical relaxer to hair that has not been previously relaxed, requiring a specific application pattern to ensure even results.

• Start application 1/4 to 1/2 inch away from the scalp.
• Apply to the mid-shaft first, then to the ends, and finally to the scalp.
• Scalp processes faster due to body heat (zona of greatest porosity).
• Ends are often more porous and require less processing time.

Memory trick: Mid-shaft First, then Ends, then Scalp Last.

The final chemical step in permanent waving, which re-hardens the hair and rebuilds the disulfide bonds in their new shape.

• Also called oxidation or re-bonding.
• Typically involves hydrogen peroxide.
• Deactivates residual waving lotion.
• Locks the curl pattern into place.

Memory trick: Reduction Breaks, Neutralization Binds.

The primary active chemical in most 'no-lye' relaxers is guanidine hydroxide.

• Marketed as gentler than lye relaxers.
• Often requires mixing two components before use.
• Can still cause scalp irritation and hair damage if misused.
• Contains guanidine carbonate and calcium hydroxide, which mix to form guanidine hydroxide.

Memory trick: Lye is Soda, No-Lye is Goo, Thio is Ammo.

Perms with a pH between 7.8 and 8.2 (sometimes called 'true acid' if pH 4.5-7.0) used for delicate or chemically-treated hair to minimize damage.

• Lower pH than alkaline waves (9.0-9.6).
• Cause less hair swelling and cuticle lifting.
• Often require external heat for proper processing.
• Produce softer, looser curls and have less damage potential.

Memory trick: Alkaline is Strong, Acid is Gentle for delicate hair.

Keratin smoothing treatments are semi-permanent services that reduce frizz and smooth hair by coating it with keratin and temporarily altering the hair's hydrogen and salt bonds with heat.

• Do not permanently break disulfide bonds.
• Results typically last 2-6 months.
• Mainly reduce frizz and loosen curl, not completely straighten.
• Involves the application of a keratin-based solution and then sealing with heat (flat iron).

Memory trick: Relaxers are Permanent, Keratin is Temporary, Blowouts are Brief.