California Cosmetology Written ExamHaircuttingHard

A stylist wants to increase the amount of graduation at the perimeter of a haircut. She combs a subsection out and away from its natural falling position before cutting it. This technique is called:

  1. AProjection
  2. BElevation
  3. COverdirection
  4. DCross-checking
Show answer & explanation

Correct answer: C. Overdirection

Overdirection is the technique of combing a subsection of hair away from its natural falling position (not straight up, but off to a side) before cutting, which increases length and graduation in the direction the hair is directed toward. Elevation refers to the angle the hair is held above the head, projection refers to the degree hair is lifted from the head, and cross-checking is a technique used to verify evenness after cutting.

Why the other options are wrong

  • A. Projection is the amount of lift/stretch of hair from the head, a related but distinct concept.
  • B. Elevation is the general angle hair is held above the head, not specifically directed away from natural fall.
  • D. Cross-checking is a verification technique performed after cutting, not a cutting technique itself.

Overdirection

Combing a subsection of hair away from its natural falling position (rather than straight out) before cutting, which increases length and graduation at the perimeter.

  • Hair is combed away from natural fall, not straight up
  • Increases graduation/length differences at perimeter
  • Commonly used in long layer and graduated designs

Memory trick: Overdirect = pull hair 'over' to a different direction than it naturally falls.

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