NIC Barber Written (Theory) Exam flashcards

The essential step of thoroughly rinsing the hair after the waving solution has processed, prior to applying the neutralizer.

• Removes active waving chemicals
• Prevents over-processing
• Prepares hair for neutralization

Memory trick: Wrap, Wave, Rinse, Neutralize: Wavy hair is made by a careful sequence.

A hair styling technique used to create volume, lift, and a cushion at the base of the hair by gently and repeatedly combing small sections of hair from the ends toward the scalp.

• Also known as teasing
• Creates volume and lift at the scalp
• Forms a cushioned base
• Used for updos and fuller styles

Memory trick: To lift and cushion, backcomb with a gentle push.

A chronic autoimmune condition affecting the scalp, characterized by well-defined red patches covered with thick, silvery scales, often accompanied by itching and flaking.

• Red, inflamed patches
• Silvery scales
• Itching and flaking
• Non-contagious chronic condition

Memory trick: Psoriasis leaves 'silver scars' on a red scalp.

An inflammation of the hair follicles, typically caused by bacterial or fungal infection, presenting as small, red, itchy, and sometimes painful pus-filled bumps (pustules) around the hair follicles.

• Inflammation of hair follicles
• Caused by bacteria, fungi, or irritation
• Small, red, pus-filled bumps (pustules)
• Often itchy and tender/painful

Memory trick: Pus-filled bumps at the follicle? Folliculitis is the culprit.

A hair coloring product that is mixed with an oxidizing agent (developer) to lighten the hair's natural pigment and deposit new color simultaneously. It is capable of lifting natural hair color and providing permanent results.

• Uses an alkaline substance (ammonia) to open the cuticle.
• Oxidizing agent (hydrogen peroxide) lightens natural melanin.
• New color molecules are deposited into the cortex.
• Can lift 1-4 levels depending on developer strength.

Memory trick: Permanent color lifts and deposits.

A haircutting technique where all sections of hair are cut at the same length, creating a soft, rounded shape with consistent movement throughout the head.

• Hair is elevated to 90 degrees from the head.
• Results in a soft, rounded, and voluminous shape.
• All hair strands are cut to the same length.

Memory trick: Layering Uniformly Creates a Soft Round.

Specialized cutting tools with smaller, finer blades designed for creating precise lines, clean outlines, and detail work around the perimeter of a haircut.

• Creates sharp lines
• Ideal for nape, sideburns, around ears
• Used for outlining and detailing
• Also known as outliners

Memory trick: Trimmers make the edges Tidy, Clippers cut the bulk.

A haircutting technique that involves sliding shears down the hair strand to remove bulk, create mobility, and produce a softened, feathered, or tapered effect.

• Also known as slithering
• Used to create a soft, feathered look
• Removes bulk and adds movement
• Shears are partially opened and slid along the hair shaft

Memory trick: Feathered hair? Think 'slithering' shears for softness.

A critical safety procedure to follow when a client experiences adverse symptoms (burning, itching, redness, swelling) during a hair coloring service, involving immediate removal of the product.

• Stop service immediately
• Rinse product thoroughly
• Document reaction
• Advise client to seek medical attention

Memory trick: When a reaction hits, 'Rinse Rápido' – quick rinse, quick relief.

The standard mixing ratio for most permanent hair colors, combining one part hair color formula with one part developer, typically 20 volume, to achieve optimal gray coverage and desired color results.

• Standard ratio for permanent color
• Ensures balanced pigment and developer
• Essential for optimal gray coverage
• Most common with 20 volume developer

Memory trick: Equal parts color and developer, for gray's perfect cover.

Choosing the appropriate chemical relaxer type based on the client's hair texture, condition (e.g., fine, coarse, color-treated), and desired results to ensure safety and effectiveness.

• Thio relaxers are generally milder and suitable for fine, delicate, or color-treated hair.
• Hydroxide relaxers (lye/no-lye) are stronger and used for coarse or resistant hair.
• Hair integrity must be a primary consideration for relaxer choice.

Memory trick: Fine, delicate, colored? Thio is the gentle savior!

A permanent waving end paper technique where one end paper is placed under the hair strand and another is placed over it, providing maximum protection for delicate hair and ensuring even saturation of waving solution.

• Uses two end papers (under and over)
• Provides maximum protection
• Ensures even saturation
• Prevents 'fishhooks' and breakage

Memory trick: For fragile hair, use a 'double' shield (double flat wrap) to protect it.

A severe form of dandruff characterized by greasy or waxy scales mixed with sebum that adhere to the scalp and hair, often accompanied by itching.

• Oily, greasy flakes
• Adheres to scalp and hair
• Accompanied by itching and inflammation

Memory trick: Greasy Steven's scalp is sticky, not just simple flakes.

A preliminary test performed on a small, inconspicuous section of hair to determine the correct processing time and relaxer strength needed for a chemical relaxing service.

• Determines processing time
• Assesses relaxer strength suitability
• Checks for desired results and damage

Memory trick: Before relaxing, always check the strand for strength, not just the skin.

A haircutting technique that creates a gradual buildup of weight, with the hair progressively getting shorter from the exterior to the interior or from longer lengths to shorter lengths, often resulting in a stacked or beveled effect.

• Builds weight
• Creates a stacked or beveled look
• Hair length increases gradually from a shorter point to a longer point

Memory trick: Graduation is like building steps, each one a little shorter than the last, creating a precise decline.

A type of hair color product that deposits color molecules into the hair cuticle and sometimes partially into the cortex but does not contain ammonia and therefore cannot lighten the natural hair color. It is used to enhance, tone, darken, or refresh existing color and typically fades over 4-6 weeks.

• Mixed with a low-volume developer (e.g., 6-10 volume peroxide).
• Adds shine and improves hair condition.
• Ideal for blending gray hair or refreshing faded permanent color.
• Less commitment than permanent color.

Memory trick: Demi for dazzling, temporary shine.

A common hair color mixing instruction indicating that equal parts of color product and developer should be combined.

• Expressed as '1 part color to 1 part developer'.
• Critical for proper color development and gray coverage.
• Total volume is the sum of the color and developer parts.

Memory trick: Ratio 1:1? Equal parts, total sum!

An acidic solution or shampoo used after a chemical relaxer to deactivate any remaining relaxer chemicals and re-form the disulfide bonds in the hair, locking it into its new, straighter shape.

• Deactivates relaxer chemicals
• Re-forms disulfide bonds
• Locks hair into new shape
• Often acid-balanced

Memory trick: Relaxer Breaks, Neutralizer Narrows and Nits the bonds.

A haircutting technique where the tips of the shears are used to cut into the ends of the hair at an angle, removing bulk and creating a softer, more textured, or blended effect without significantly reducing length.

• Used to soften the perimeter or interior of a haircut.
• Adds texture and movement to the hair.
• Can be used to reduce weight and bulk.
• Different angles and depths of cutting can produce varied effects.

Memory trick: Texture techniques: 'Point it for soft ends, Thin it for less bulk, Slice it for movement, Notch it for strong texture.'

A shampoo specifically formulated with an acidic pH to stop the action of alkaline chemical relaxers and restore the hair's natural pH balance after the relaxer is rinsed out.

• Stops chemical action
• Restores pH balance
• Prevents over-processing and damage

Memory trick: After the relaxer, you need to 'neutralize' the situation to bring peace back to the hair.

The precise proportion of hair color product (e.g., color cream, tint) to developer (oxidizing agent) as specified by the manufacturer. Correct mixing ratios are crucial for proper color development, longevity, and desired results.

• Common ratios include 1:1, 1:1.5, 1:2.
• First number represents color, second number represents developer.
• Incorrect ratios can lead to poor lift, uneven color, or weak results.

Memory trick: Ratio: color first, then developer.

The ability of a hair color product to effectively conceal or blend gray (unpigmented) hair, with permanent color being the only option for 100% opaque coverage.

• Gray hair lacks natural pigment.
• Permanent color penetrates the cortex for full coverage.
• Demi-permanent color can blend gray but not fully cover if 100% is desired.

Memory trick: Permanent Color is the 'P' for 'Perfect' Gray Coverage.

A hair lightening technique where the product is applied strategically to different sections of the hair based on their porosity levels. Less porous (darker, virgin) areas receive the lightener first, allowing more processing time, while more porous (lighter, previously treated) areas are addressed later to prevent over-processing.

• Essential for achieving even lift on hair with uneven porosity.
• Protects previously lightened or damaged areas from further harm.
• Requires careful assessment of hair's condition and history.

Memory trick: Dark first, then light to balance the lift.

The precise level of moisture required in the hair during the wrapping stage of a permanent wave service to ensure proper curl formation and even chemical penetration.

• Hair should be damp, not soaking wet
• Excess water must be blotted out
• Prevents dilution of waving solution
• Ensures even penetration and curl

Memory trick: Damp and Blotted hair gets the best curl spot.

A haircutting technique that involves cutting different lengths of hair within a section, removing weight and creating movement, volume, and texture. It is often used to add fullness to fine hair or reduce bulk in thick hair.

• Achieved by elevating hair sections at various angles.
• Can be uniform, progressive, or concentrated in specific areas.
• Creates a softer, more diffused line compared to blunt cutting.

Memory trick: Layers lift fine hair.

The method of directing the blow dryer's airflow parallel to the hair shaft, from the scalp area down towards the ends, to effectively close the hair's cuticle layer. This technique results in smoother, shinier hair and helps to prevent frizz and damage.

• Always use a nozzle attachment to concentrate airflow.
• Helps to seal in moisture and reflect light.
• Essential for achieving a polished, professional finish.

Memory trick: Air down, cuticle smooth.

The critical step of thoroughly rinsing all chemical relaxer product from the hair and scalp with warm water immediately after processing, before neutralization.

• Stops the chemical action of the relaxer.
• Prevents scalp irritation and hair damage.
• Must be done thoroughly to ensure no residue remains.

Memory trick: Processed? Rinse, rinse, rinse before the neutralize dance!

Hair color products that deposit color pigments on the hair's surface, washing out with a single shampooing without altering the natural pigment.

• No lightening of natural hair color
• Does not penetrate the cuticle
• Washes out easily with shampoo

Memory trick: Temporary colors are like a quick art project, easily washed away.

Permanent waving solutions formulated with a pH between 4.5 and 6.5, making them gentler on the hair. They are ideal for delicate, porous, or previously chemically treated hair, such as bleached hair.

• pH range: 4.5-6.5
• Gentle on hair
• Suitable for porous/damaged/bleached hair
• Requires heat to process

Memory trick: Bleached hair needs a 'balanced' approach, not too strong, just right.

Different chemical relaxers (e.g., sodium hydroxide, guanidine hydroxide, ammonium thioglycolate) are chosen based on hair type and condition to achieve desired straightening while minimizing damage.

• Sodium hydroxide (Lye) is strongest, for coarse, resistant hair.
• Guanidine hydroxide (No-Lye) is strong, for sensitive scalps but can be drying.
• Ammonium thioglycolate (Thio) is milder, for fine, color-treated, or porous hair.

Memory trick: Relaxer choices depend on hair's 'Fine-ness', 'Color', and 'Strength' needed.

The permanent waving solution (reducing agent) breaks the hair's disulfide bonds, allowing the hair to be molded into the shape of the perm rod.

• Main ingredient is usually ammonium thioglycolate.
• Alkaline pH swells the hair cuticle.
• Breaks disulfide bonds through a chemical reduction process.

Memory trick: Waving Solution Breaks Bonds for Bendy Hair.

The immediate steps to take if a client experiences a burning sensation on the scalp during a chemical relaxing service.

• Client comfort and safety are paramount.
• Burning indicates overexposure or irritation.
• Immediate rinsing stops the chemical process.

Memory trick: Burn? Rinse! Don't wait, don't add, don't spread.

A texturizing technique where the shears are partially opened and glided along the hair strand to remove bulk, create movement, and soften lines without creating noticeable layers.

• Removes weight from the interior of the haircut.
• Achieves a softer, more blended look.
• Ideal for reducing bulk and adding movement without visible lines.

Memory trick: Soft, no lines, just movement? Slither and you'll smooth it!

Flexible, foam-covered perm rods that can be bent into various shapes, ideal for creating gentle, natural-looking waves and suitable for delicate hair due to their soft nature.

• Flexible and pliable
• Good for delicate or fine hair
• Create gentle, natural-looking waves
• Less tension on the hair

Memory trick: For delicate hair, 'bend' the rules with soft rods.

A type of permanent wave solution with a low pH (4.5-7.0) that is ideal for delicate, color-treated, or damaged hair. It processes slowly and requires the application of external heat.

• Main active ingredient is glyceryl monothioglycolate.
• Requires external heat (hood dryer) to process.
• Produces soft, natural-looking curls.
• Minimizes swelling of the hair, reducing damage.

Memory trick: Perm types: 'Acid is Gentle and needs Heat, Alkaline is Strong and Cold, Exothermic is Strong and Hot.'

A condition in chemical relaxing where the hair has been exposed to the relaxer solution for too long, or the solution was too strong for the hair type, leading to excessive breakage of disulfide bonds. Symptoms include mushy, overly soft hair, loss of elasticity, and potential breakage.

• Can result in severe hair damage, including melting or breaking off.
• Often due to improper strand testing or timing.
• Requires immediate rinsing and neutralizing to minimize damage.

Memory trick: Mushy hair? Rinse and run!

Hair color products that use an alkaline ingredient (like ammonia) and an oxidizing agent (developer) to simultaneously lighten the hair's natural pigment and deposit new color, creating a permanent change.

• Lightens natural pigment
• Deposits new color
• Contains ammonia and developer
• Permanent results

Memory trick: To 'permanently' 'lighten' a dark room, you need a strong 'light' (permanent color).

A type of permanent hair color formulated to lighten natural hair color up to 4-5 levels in a single step, often used to achieve lighter shades without traditional bleach.

• Provides significant lift without the harshness of bleach.
• Contains higher concentrations of ammonia and typically 40-volume developer.
• Often used for blonde shades or to lighten natural levels.

Memory trick: Want natural lift, no bleach? High-lift tint is the fit!

A haircutting technique that involves gradually shortening the hair from the perimeter (e.g., nape, sides) to longer lengths towards the crown or interior, creating a soft, blended, and seamless transition.

• Often achieved with clippers, shears-over-comb, or scissors-over-comb.
• Creates a 'faded' or 'graduated' effect without creating distinct lines.
• Essential for many classic men's hairstyles.

Memory trick: Tapering transitions hair smoothly.

A hair coloring product that is mixed with a developer (hydrogen peroxide) to simultaneously lighten the natural hair pigment and deposit new artificial pigment into the hair cortex, resulting in a lasting color change.

• Lifts and deposits color
• Requires developer (peroxide)
• Long-lasting results
• Covers gray hair effectively

Memory trick: Permanent color lifts and lasts, unlike temporary tints.

The chemical process, typically using an oxidizing agent, that re-forms and hardens the disulfide bonds in the new, desired curl pattern after the waving solution has broken them.

• Typically hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromate.
• Stops the action of the waving solution.
• Locks the hair into its new shape.

Memory trick: Waving breaks, Neutralizer makes (bonds)!

Perm rods that are smaller in diameter in the center and larger on the ends, creating a tighter, firmer curl in the middle of the hair strand and a looser curl at the ends. They are effective for producing strong, consistent curl patterns.

• Most commonly used type of perm rod.
• Ideal for achieving tighter curls and body.
• Suitable for various hair lengths, especially medium to long.

Memory trick: Concave creates core curls.

A type of permanent waving solution that has a pH between 4.5 and 7.0, typically requiring an outside heat source to process. It causes minimal swelling of the hair cuticle, making it suitable for delicate, porous, or previously damaged hair.

• Main active ingredient is glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG).
• Processes slower than alkaline waves.
• Results in softer, looser curls and less damage.
• Not recommended for use on extremely healthy, resistant hair.

Memory trick: Acid waves are kinder to hair.

Choosing the correct permanent waving solution based on hair porosity and condition to achieve desired curl and minimize damage or frizz.

• Porous hair absorbs solutions quickly and is prone to damage.
• Acid-balanced waves are gentler and ideal for porous, color-treated, or delicate hair.
• Alkaline waves are stronger and best for resistant, coarse hair.

Memory trick: Porous hair needs a gentle, balanced acid wave.

The process of choosing the appropriate chemical relaxer strength based on the client's hair texture, density, porosity, and overall condition to achieve desired results safely.

• Mild: Fine, color-treated, or porous hair
• Regular: Normal texture hair
• Super: Coarse, resistant, or extremely curly hair
• Incorrect strength leads to damage or ineffective results

Memory trick: Match the strength to the hair: Fine is Mild, Normal is Regular, Coarse is Super.

If a client experiences burning or severe discomfort during a chemical relaxing service, the relaxer must be immediately rinsed from the hair and scalp to prevent chemical burns.

• Burning sensation is a sign of over-processing or irritation.
• Immediate rinsing stops the chemical reaction.
• Scalp integrity is paramount to prevent injury.

Memory trick: Burning means 'Rinse Now' to Prevent Harm.

Hair that has been weakened or compromised, often due to chemical processes, heat styling, or environmental factors, leading to specific undesirable traits.

• Dull and lifeless appearance
• Breaks easily, especially when wet
• Rough, porous texture
• Often tangles easily

Memory trick: Damaged hair is dull, breaks, and feels rough, unlike healthy hair.

A cream applied to the scalp and hairline before a chemical relaxer service to create a barrier that protects the skin from irritation and chemical burns.

• Applied before relaxer
• Protects scalp and skin
• Prevents chemical irritation/burns
• Often petroleum-based

Memory trick: Base cream protects the scalp from the burn of the relaxer.

A mandatory safety procedure performed 24-48 hours before a hair coloring service to identify potential allergic reactions to the product.

• Also called a predisposition or allergy test.
• Required by law and product manufacturers.
• Involves applying a small amount of product to a discreet skin area.

Memory trick: Allergy? Patch it 24 hours before!

Different hair color types (temporary, semi-permanent, demi-permanent, permanent) vary in their ability to lighten natural hair pigment and deposit artificial color.

• Temporary/Semi-permanent: deposit only, no lift.
• Demi-permanent: deposit only, minimal to no lift.
• Permanent: deposits color and lightens natural pigment.

Memory trick: Permanent Color is the only 'P' that 'Pops' for Lightening.

A highly contagious fungal infection of the scalp, characterized by dry, sulfur-yellow, cup-like crusts called scutula, often accompanied by a distinctive odor.

• Caused by a fungus (usually Trichophyton schoenleinii)
• Leads to scarring and permanent hair loss if untreated
• Distinctive odor and appearance of scutula are key identifiers

Memory trick: Fungus Favors Yellow Cups with Funky Smell.

Hair with a raised or damaged cuticle layer, allowing moisture and chemicals to be absorbed quickly but also lost quickly. It often appears dull, feels rough, and is prone to damage.

• Cuticle layer is raised/damaged
• Absorbs moisture and products quickly
• Loses moisture quickly
• Feels rough, appears dull, prone to frizz and damage

Memory trick: High porosity is like a sieve; water goes in fast, but comes out just as fast.

The greenish tint in light-colored hair after swimming in chlorinated pools is caused by copper minerals in the water binding to the hair and oxidizing.

• Primarily affects blonde, gray, or chemically lightened hair.
• Copper ions from pool water adhere to the hair shaft.
• Oxidation of copper creates the green color.

Memory trick: Green Hair from Pools is Copper's Chlorine Crime.

Also known as a developer or catalyst, typically hydrogen peroxide, it is a chemical compound that supplies the oxygen necessary to decolorize the hair's natural melanin and develop the artificial dye molecules in permanent hair color.

• Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is common
• Removes natural melanin (lift)
• Develops artificial color molecules
• Different volumes determine strength of action

Memory trick: Oxidizer Opens, Lifts, and Develops the new color.

Hair with tightly closed cuticle layers, making it difficult for moisture to penetrate or escape. It often appears smooth, shiny, and resists chemical processing.

• Cuticles are tightly packed and lie flat.
• Resists water absorption, causing it to bead on the surface.
• Often appears shiny and healthy.
• Can be resistant to chemical services like coloring or perming.

Memory trick: Low porosity: 'Like a sealed submarine, water just slides right off!'

A gentle form of chemical exfoliation that uses fruit-derived enzymes (e.g., papain from papaya, bromelain from pineapple) to digest and remove dead skin cells from the surface, suitable for sensitive skin.

• Works by dissolving keratin proteins that hold dead cells together.
• Less irritating than alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or physical scrubs.
• Improves skin texture, brightness, and allows for better product penetration.

Memory trick: Enzymes Easily Exfoliate, Especially for the Easily Irritated.

A powerful humectant naturally found in the skin, known for its exceptional ability to attract and retain large amounts of water, thus providing intense hydration and plumping effects.

• Attracts and holds up to 1,000 times its weight in water.
• Helps improve skin elasticity and reduce the appearance of fine lines.
• Supports a healthy skin barrier function.

Memory trick: Hydrate with HA to Heal and Absorb.