NIC Cosmetology Written (Theory) ExamHair Care and ServicesHard
A cosmetologist is preparing to perform a virgin lightener application on a client's medium brown hair (level 5) who desires to achieve a pale blonde result (level 9). Which of the following factors is most crucial for the cosmetologist to consider when selecting the appropriate developer volume?
- AThe porosity of the hair.
- BThe strength of the lightener formula.
- CThe client's desired tone.
- DThe number of levels of lift required.
Show answer & explanationAnswer & explanation
Correct answer: D. The number of levels of lift required.
Developer volume directly correlates with the amount of lift achieved. To go from a level 5 to a level 9 requires 4 levels of lift, which dictates the appropriate developer strength. Desired tone is addressed by toners, porosity affects processing time, and lightener strength is a separate component.
Why the other options are wrong
- A. Hair porosity affects how quickly the hair processes and absorbs product, influencing timing, but not the initial choice of developer volume for lift.
- B. The strength of the lightener formula itself (e.g., powder vs. cream) is a factor, but developer volume directly controls the degree of lift.
- C. Desired tone is primarily addressed by toners or color formulas, not directly by developer volume for initial lift.
Developer Volume & Lift
The concentration of hydrogen peroxide in a developer, which determines the amount of lift (lightening) that can be achieved in hair coloring or lightening services.
- Higher volume = more lift
- 20 volume provides 1-2 levels of lift
- 30 volume provides 2-3 levels of lift
- 40 volume provides 3-4 levels of lift (use with caution)
Memory trick: To go 'up' in 'levels,' you need the right 'developer volume'.