NIC Cosmetology Written (Theory) ExamHair Care and ServicesHard

A cosmetologist is preparing to perform a permanent hair color retouch application for a client who colors their hair every 6-8 weeks. The client has 1 inch of natural new growth (Level 5) and previously colored ends (Level 7). To ensure a seamless blend and even color result, where should the color mixture be applied FIRST?

  1. ATo the entire hair strand from roots to ends.
  2. BTo the porous ends of the hair.
  3. CTo the line of demarcation between the new growth and previously colored hair.
  4. DTo the natural new growth area ONLY.
Show answer & explanation

Correct answer: D. To the natural new growth area ONLY.

For a permanent color retouch, the color should be applied to the natural new growth area first. This area is virgin hair and requires the most processing time to lift and deposit color. The previously colored ends are already processed and may be more porous, requiring less processing or a different formula to avoid over-processing.

Why the other options are wrong

  • A. Applying to the entire strand from roots to ends would result in over-processed ends and potentially a darker, uneven color due to the difference in porosity and previous color.
  • B. Applying to porous ends first could lead to over-processing and darker, duller, or damaged ends.
  • C. Applying only to the line of demarcation would create an uneven result, as the new growth needs more time to process.

Permanent Color Retouch Application

The process of applying permanent hair color to the new growth area only, to match the previously colored hair and maintain a consistent shade.

  • Applied to virgin new growth first.
  • Avoids overlapping on previously colored hair to prevent damage/over-processing.
  • Processing time adjusted for new growth.
  • Ends may be refreshed with a lighter formula or gloss if needed during the last few minutes.

Memory trick: New Growth FIRST, for a smooth color burst!

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