California Barber Written ExamHair Care ServicesHard

A client with extremely coarse, resistant hair desires a permanent wave. To ensure sufficient curl formation, the barber might choose a perm solution with a higher concentration of which active ingredient?

  1. AAmmonium thioglycolate
  2. BGlyceryl monothioglycolate
  3. CHydrogen peroxide
  4. DSodium bromate
Show answer & explanation

Correct answer: A. Ammonium thioglycolate

Ammonium thioglycolate is the primary reducing agent in alkaline (cold) perms, which have a high pH and are strong enough to effectively break the strong disulfide bonds in coarse, resistant hair, leading to significant curl formation.

Why the other options are wrong

  • B. Glyceryl monothioglycolate is the active ingredient in acid-balanced perms, which are gentler and less effective on resistant hair.
  • C. Hydrogen peroxide is the active ingredient in neutralizers, which reform the disulfide bonds, not break them for curl formation.
  • D. Sodium bromate is also a neutralizer (oxidizing agent), not a waving solution ingredient.

Ammonium Thioglycolate

The active ingredient and reducing agent in alkaline (cold) permanent waving solutions, known for its ability to effectively break strong disulfide bonds in resistant hair.

  • Primary reducing agent in alkaline perms
  • High pH (9.0-9.6)
  • Strong action on coarse, resistant hair

Memory trick: Thio breaks, Peroxide sets, Acid is gentle, Alkaline is strong.

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