California Cosmetology Written ExamChemical Texture ServicesMedium

A stylist is performing a cold (alkaline) permanent wave using ammonium thioglycolate on resistant, coarse hair. What pH range is typical for alkaline waving solutions?

  1. A9.0 to 9.6
  2. B11.5 to 12.5
  3. C3.5 to 5.0
  4. D6.5 to 7.5
Show answer & explanation

Correct answer: A. 9.0 to 9.6

Alkaline (cold) waves typically have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6, which causes the hair to swell and soften, allowing faster processing without heat.

Why the other options are wrong

  • B. This pH is too high and would cause excessive damage.
  • C. This acidic range is far too low for alkaline waves.
  • D. This near-neutral range is typical of true acid waves.

Alkaline (Cold) Wave pH

Alkaline permanent waves use ammonium thioglycolate at a pH of about 9.0–9.6, causing hair to swell and process without added heat.

  • Faster processing than acid waves
  • No heat required, unlike exothermic/acid waves
  • Can be harsher on damaged or fine hair due to higher pH

Memory trick: 'Alkaline is Nine-point-something, No heat needed'

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