California Cosmetology Written ExamChemical Texture ServicesMedium

A client with virgin, resistant hair chooses a sodium hydroxide relaxer for permanent straightening. Which chemical process permanently alters the disulfide bonds during this service?

  1. AOxidation
  2. BLanthionization
  3. CReduction
  4. DSaponification
Show answer & explanation

Correct answer: B. Lanthionization

Hydroxide relaxers like sodium hydroxide permanently convert disulfide bonds into lanthionine bonds through a process called lanthionization, which cannot be reversed like thio relaxer bonds.

Why the other options are wrong

  • A. Oxidation is used to neutralize thio-based texture services, not hydroxide relaxers.
  • C. Reduction is the mechanism used by thio (ammonium thioglycolate) relaxers, not hydroxide relaxers.
  • D. Saponification is a soap-making reaction unrelated to hair chemistry.

Lanthionization

The irreversible chemical process by which hydroxide relaxers convert disulfide bonds into lanthionine bonds, permanently straightening hair.

  • Occurs with sodium, lithium, and guanidine hydroxide relaxers
  • Bonds cannot be rebuilt, unlike thio relaxer bonds
  • Requires careful strand testing due to permanence

Memory trick: 'Lanthionization = Lasting change, no going back'

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