Florida Cosmetology Licensing ExamChemical ServicesHard
A cosmetologist is performing a full head of highlights on a client with dark brown hair using a high-lift decolorizer. During the processing, the cosmetologist observes the hair lifting to an orange-yellow stage. The desired final result is a beige blonde. What is the most appropriate next step?
- ARinse immediately and apply a violet toner.
- BContinue processing until the hair reaches a pale yellow stage.
- CRinse immediately and apply a blue toner.
- DApply more decolorizer to the orange-yellow sections.
Show answer & explanationAnswer & explanation
Correct answer: B. Continue processing until the hair reaches a pale yellow stage.
To achieve a beige blonde, the hair must first be lifted to a pale yellow stage. The orange-yellow stage indicates that the hair has not lifted enough. Rinsing prematurely would result in an undesirable warm tone, and applying more decolorizer might lead to uneven lifting or damage if not carefully controlled.
Why the other options are wrong
- A. Rinsing at orange-yellow and applying violet toner would result in a muddy, dull tone as violet neutralizes yellow, not orange.
- C. Rinsing at orange-yellow and applying blue toner would neutralize the orange but leave the yellow, resulting in a greenish or muddy tone.
- D. Applying more decolorizer to specific sections can be risky; it's generally better to allow the initial application to complete its lift if the hair is still healthy and processing.
Stages of Decolorization
The progressive stages of natural hair color lightening as melanin is removed, ranging from red-brown to pale yellow.
- Hair lifts through various warm undertones (red, red-orange, orange, orange-yellow, yellow, pale yellow)
- The desired final color determines the necessary lift stage
- Toning is used to neutralize remaining undertones after reaching the target lift stage
- Under-lifting results in warm, brassy tones; over-lifting can cause damage
Memory trick: From 'Orange-Yellow' to 'Pale Yellow', keep processing, don't mellow!