NIC Cosmetology Written (Theory) ExamHair Care and ServicesHard
A client with 50% gray hair desires a permanent hair color application that will provide complete gray coverage and a vibrant, long-lasting red tone. Which of the following color formulations would be most appropriate for achieving this result?
- AA level 7 (medium blonde) ash tone mixed with 20 volume developer.
- BA level 6 (light brown) neutral/red tone mixed with 10 volume developer.
- CA level 8 (light blonde) red tone mixed with 30 volume developer.
- DA level 6 (light brown) neutral/red tone mixed with 20 volume developer.
Show answer & explanationAnswer & explanation
Correct answer: D. A level 6 (light brown) neutral/red tone mixed with 20 volume developer.
For 50% gray coverage and vibrant red, a level 6 (light brown) neutral/red base ensures proper gray coverage (neutral base helps with gray) and the desired red tone. 20 volume developer is standard for good gray coverage and depositing permanent color without excessive lift, which can dilute red pigments.
Why the other options are wrong
- A. Ash tones counteract red, making it unsuitable for a vibrant red result. 20 volume is appropriate for gray coverage, but the tone is wrong.
- B. 10 volume developer is typically used for deposit-only or tone-on-tone applications, and may not provide sufficient lift or penetration for complete gray coverage, especially for a vibrant tone.
- C. A level 8 red tone with 30 volume developer would provide too much lift, potentially resulting in a brighter, less saturated red, and might not offer optimal gray coverage due to higher lift and less deposit.
Gray Hair Color Formulation
For effective gray coverage with vibrant tones, use a permanent color with a neutral or natural base at the desired level, mixed with 20 volume developer.
- Neutral/Natural base needed for gray coverage.
- 20 volume developer for permanent color and gray coverage.
- Desired tone (e.g., red) can be added to the neutral base.
Memory trick: Gray needs a Neutral base and a good 20 volume kick to color.