Florida Cosmetology Licensing ExamHair ServicesHard
When performing a hair coloring service, the cosmetologist needs to create a formula that opens the cuticle layer of the hair to allow the color molecules to penetrate into the cortex. Which ingredient is primarily responsible for performing this action in permanent hair color formulations?
- AAlkalizing agent
- BConditioning polymers
- CPara-phenylenediamine (PPD)
- DHydrogen peroxide
Show answer & explanationAnswer & explanation
Correct answer: A. Alkalizing agent
The alkalizing agent (usually ammonia or an ammonia substitute) in permanent hair color raises the pH of the hair, causing the cuticle layer to swell and open, allowing the color molecules and developer to penetrate the cortex.
Why the other options are wrong
- B. Conditioning polymers are added to protect and condition the hair during the coloring process, not to open the cuticle.
- C. PPD is a primary intermediate dye used to create color, but it does not open the cuticle; it forms larger color molecules once inside the cortex.
- D. Hydrogen peroxide (developer) oxidizes the color molecules and helps to lighten natural pigment, but it doesn't primarily open the cuticle.
Alkalizing Agent (Hair Color)
An ingredient in permanent hair color formulations (most commonly ammonia or monoethanolamine) that raises the pH of the hair, swelling and opening the cuticle layer to allow the penetration of color molecules into the cortex.
- Opens hair cuticle
- Raises hair pH
- Allows color penetration
- Commonly ammonia or MEA
Memory trick: Alkalizing unlocks the cuticle for color to come in!