California Cosmetology Written ExamHaircoloringMedium
A cosmetologist explains to a new client why permanent hair color can both lighten and deposit color in a single application. What role does ammonia (or an ammonia-substitute alkalizing agent) play in this process?
- AIt acts as the oxidizing agent that develops the color molecules
- BIt swells and raises the cuticle layer, allowing peroxide and color molecules to penetrate into the cortex
- CIt permanently seals the cuticle to lock in the new color
- DIt neutralizes the pH of the scalp after processing
Show answer & explanationAnswer & explanation
Correct answer: B. It swells and raises the cuticle layer, allowing peroxide and color molecules to penetrate into the cortex
Ammonia (or an alkalizing substitute) raises the pH of the hair, causing the cuticle to swell and lift, which allows hydrogen peroxide and the small, uncolored dye precursors to penetrate into the cortex where oxidation and color formation occur.
Why the other options are wrong
- A. Hydrogen peroxide, not ammonia, is the oxidizing agent
- C. Ammonia opens the cuticle rather than sealing it
- D. Ammonia raises pH during processing, it does not neutralize afterward
Ammonia in Permanent Color
An alkalizing agent that raises hair pH, swelling the cuticle to allow peroxide and dye penetration into the cortex.
- Raises pH to approximately 9-10
- Allows small dye precursor molecules to enter cortex
- Ammonia-free formulas use substitutes like MEA (monoethanolamine)
Memory trick: Ammonia opens the door (cuticle) so peroxide and dye can walk into the cortex